During my
visit in Porto in June with fellow board members
of The Vintage Port Club we visited some port lodges as well. First we went to Graham’s,
then Barão de Vilar, Sogevinus (at Cálems lodge), Noval and finally Ramos
Pinto.
Among the
many port tasted, I will mention some highlights.
Gustavo
Devesas served the new range of tawny from Graham’s. They are all very soft, smooth
and drinkable. At first I thought that the gap between the 20 and the 30 years
was too small, but after a while the 30 years Tawny gained a lot with its fresh
orange and almonds and nice acid to balance the sweetness. After that we had
two splendid Colheitas: The 1969 and the 1952 – the latter made for Queen Elizabeth’s
Diamond Jubilee. Sweet, but with good acid to balance.
Among the
new Vintage 2011 from the Symington’s, we tasted Warre’s, Dows, Cockburn, Graham’s,
Graham’s The Stone Terraces, Quinta do Vesuvio and Quinta do Vesuvio Capela. A
good flight among the many vintages declared from the already praised year. Warre’s
was deep purple, with a lot of cherries and blackberries and ripe tannins. Graham’s
more sweet, rich and fruity and very promising. Graham’s The Stone Terraces is
made from two schist stone-terraced vineyards at Quinta dos Malvedos. The
result is a rich, fruity, concentrated and vinous port, powerful and with some
mint. Vesuvio was dark and very powerful too with both acid and strong tannins.
You can find some of the same in Capela, but the addition of Sousão and a bit
Alicante Bouschet makes it different to. More heavy and tight, but fresh at the
same time, spicy and with pepper in a long finish.
We had a
LBV from 2003 followed by a young but promising Vintage 2003 and a Vintage
2000. The latter was drinkable already, more dry and with minerals, but with
less tannins that the 2003. After that followed Colheita 2004, Colheita 2000, 20
years Tawny and Colheita 1984. The first a bit too young, 2000 very smooth with
nuts and orange. The 20 years was sweeter that the Colheitas but very nice. The
best glass sure was the 1984 with an impressive amount of acid to balance.
Finally at Ramos
Pinto Ana Rato presented both rubies and tawnies as well: LBV 2008 – one of the
best LBV´s with a lot of power and juicy fruit, Single Quinta Vintage 2007 from
Ervamoira and the vintage from the same year. The former more dry and spicy and
with a lot of mint in the nose. The latter sweater, darker and with a more deep
pallet. Then followed their range of aged Tawny, 10 years, 20 years and 30
years. They always impress me with their good balance between sweetness with
almonds and freshness with acid, orange and acid. I range them among the best tawnies
at all.
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