A couple of
weeks ago California Wines invited to a master class about Rhône varieties in California . I found the topic interesting
and besides that I know René Langdahl Jørgensen, who was tutoring the tasting. So
I went to Kold College , which was a good decision –
both because that is was interesting to hear more about the varieties and
because the tasting included some very nice wines.
Winemaking
in California
goes back to 1769, when a Franciscan missionary established the first known
vineyard in the state. Rhône varieties have been present since the middle of
the 19th Century, when European crops and vines were imported.
Because of the warm climate in California Grenache was very popular and used
for fortified wine as well. But later Syrah was getting popular as well,
booming from the 1970s.
In the
1980s the organization Rhone Rangers was founded by a group of winemakers with the aim to promote Rhône varieties in
America particularly California . Wines
promoted by Rhone Rangers must contain at least 75 % of one or more of 22
varieties from Rhône. The varieties are both French native grapes like Syrah,
Rousanne, Viognier and Cinsault among others and Spanish varieties like
Grenache, Mourvedre and Carignan.
At first
the varieties were considered best for the warm climate zones in California , but that was
not always right. A variety like Syrah is growing well in the Northern
Rhône , where the climate is cooler. Luckily the winemakers in California found out as well, and since the new
millennium vineyards have been planted in cooler places as well, mainly in the Central Coast area.
That’s the
reason why some of the wines, included in the tasting were not typically
Californian block busters with a lot of mature fruit and high alcohol content.
They had acidity and delicious fresh fruit as well. Here are some notes of the
wines tasted.
Qupé Wine
Cellars: Rousanne Bien Nacido, Hillside Estate 2010, Santa Maria
Yellow and
clear. Intense in the nose with yellow plums, citrus and tropical fruits like
passion fruit. Good acidity and a few notes from the cask, honey and a bit
smoky, intense and well balanced.
Groundwork,
Grenache Blanc 2013, Paso Robles
Made by
winemaker Curt Schalchlin from Sans Liege. 100 % tank
fermented. Yellow green and bright. Citrus and apples, but not that intense
in the nose. Well bodied and fruity but with freshness as well.
Fess
Parker, Viognier 2013, Santa Barbara
85 %
Viognier and then Grenache, Rousanne and Marsanne. Yellow green. White pepper
and honey in the nose, intense and full bodied. Not a lot of acidity.
A Tribute
to Grace, Grenache 2012, Santa Barbara Highlands Vineyard
Bright
ruby. Not that intense in the nose, but with clean fruit like raspberry and
dark cherries and some floral notes as well. Surprisingly fresh with fruitiness
and good acidity. Nearly a Burgundy stile wine.
Ampelos
Cellars, Gamma 2010 Syrah, Santa
Rita Hills
100 % Syrah
from the Danish winemaker Peter Works vineyard. Dark ruby with a bright rime.
Intense nose with dark berries like blackberry and some liquorice and olives. A
bit jammy but with good acidity and soft tannins. Aged for 18 months on cask.
Tablas
Creek, Esprit de Tablas 2011, Paso Robles
A blend of
40 % Mourvedre, 30 % Grenache, 20 % Syrah and 10 % Counoise. Dark ruby with red
rime. Weak in the nose. Dark mature cherries, spices and earthy notes. Dry, fresh
and with good balance.
Turley,
Cincault 2013, Bechtoldt Vineyard, Lodi
Grapes from
a vineyard planted in 1886. Dark ruby with bright purple rime, intense. Not
that powerful in the nose at first, berries and spices, fresh and fruity on the
palate and with soft tannins.